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Annapurna Circuit: Blood sweat and tears ( and also Brittany’s account)… part 2

Day 4: Dharapani to Chame – We got up and moving pretty early this day (8:20am). To Danaque was “supposed” to be 1 hour. Now at this point me and Sean have realized that the time tables given by the Nepalese are waaaayyy different then the time tables it actually takes. A town that is supposed to be a hour could be over 2 hours or it could be less then 30. The only thing for sure is it will most certainly NOT take you an hour.The trek was uphill over rocks and boulders. Somewhere on the trail we got lost and ended up on a completely different trail then the normal Annapurna Circuit trail. It ended up being a fantastic alternative cause it took us though amazing waterfalls. To get across you either had to balance precariously close to the edge of the cliff (my route) or had to take off shoes, roll up the pants and wade through knee deep freezing water (Sean’s route). After close to three hours we found the original trail. We broke for lunch completely exhausted and covered in mud and sweat.

The second half of the day from Temang to Chame was much easier and after lunch we were revitalized and made great time. We stayed at the New Tibetan Guest house which had average* rooms, but most importantly the showers where not glacier cold! I could actually take a semi-shower for the first time in 4 days. MUCH needed.

*I feel like i should make a note that all the rooms we stayed at cost between 150-300 Rupees. (that’s about 2-3USD for both of us…. its hard to complain too much when a night in our guesthouse cost less then a can of pringles.)

 

These are my words as I wrote them on this day. I feel the brevity speaks to how hard a day it was. And it was.

“Trekking poles are amazing, I grip them so tightly so often, I imagine by the end of this ill have the hand strength of a boy entering puberty. This was the hardest day for me yet. Super hot tons of ascents, I was exhausted and upset. Brittany kept me happy. Love that girl.”

Brittany on the Annapurna standing too close to the ledge

 

Day 5: Chame to Lower Pisang – This day we had a slow start because we had to go to the bank before we left Chame (as its the only bank on the Annapurna circuit). In typically Nepalese fashion when we asked what time the bank opened the guard said “ah 9 or 10 depends.” So we asked again and he did the traditional Indian/Nepalese head bobble and says “ahhhh sure it open at 9”. So when we got to the bank at 9 the next morning we weren’t overly surprised it didn’t open till 10. After we got some money changed we were on the road by 11, and I began feeling like death about 30 minutes later.

Not sure what my problem was, but i had no energy and some other symptoms i will spare you all. (you’re welcome). Needless to say i was moving slow and was not in the best shape. We got to Lower Pisang around 6pm, about 15 minutes before a massive storm blew into town. I crashed within 10 minutes after pushing my dinner around on the plate and declaring to Sean that i was dying. After talking to a couple of American guys that we meet on the trail it turns out that one of them had the exact same symptoms I did, and none of the four us us knew what the problem was. All we knew was it wasn’t altitude sickness so i guess we keep pressing on in hopes it works itself out…

 

Brittany had a hard day today, stomach issues have drained her of much of her energy. it’s finally cold for once, we change money over and I buy tang. I feel like a orange sugar coated god! I have electrolytes! I’m not sweating my ass off! Life is great. We end in lower pisang at a place called Hotel Moonlight and restaurant. Most comfy beds ever and they provide blankets. We can hear the neighbors when they lay down, two 26 year old Americans. One shouts “Is this nasa space foam???” The other exclaims “Holy shit , I think this is tempurpedic”. I burst out laughing which they can hear through the wall which causes them to burst into laughter. Rain and thunder and lightning arrived only minutes after we got our room. Got very lucky today. Brittany and I had lemon ginger honey tea, garlic soup, yak meat curry, and veggie spring roll , the meal soothed the soul for sure.

Buck up lady, we're almost there (we're not)

 

Day 6: Lower Pisang to Braga – We woke up the next morning and as we were packing one of the guys pokes his head in to our room and asks “One of you isn’t Brittany Box, are you?”… I kind of look stunned and he pulls out my main traveling credit card! Apparently they had seen it on one of the trails and happened to pick it up because they recognized the Charles swhab logo.  Thank God! I probably would not have even noticed i lost the card until two weeks later once we arrived in Pokhara. I decide to name my first unborn son after him (Alex) and we were on our way to Braga.

This day was a blur to me as i was walking like a zombie trying not to focus on my stomach or being sick. Sean said it was a nice walk though :) The main part of today that really got my mind back in the place i wanted it to be was the last 30 minutes into Braga we ran into two adorable little girls around 5 or 6 who started asking us for chocolate. I gave them a high five instead and suddenly they were our BFFs. They loved the walking sticks we were using, so with one on each of our sticks they started walking through the town mimicking us. I started laughing again and finally feel like myself after being basically walking dead the whole day.

 

 

These days have  kind of been uneventful. We stayed in baraka instead of manang because of a recommendation in a blog from 3 years ago. We were glad we did, the guest house was really nice, found the Americans had stayed there as well. Brittany’s stomach issues persisted, so we didn’t do much these days. She’s done a round of ciprofloxicin without much effect. I do some time lapse stuff, and eat a lot of veggie burgers and soup.  One of the Americans has been feeling similar to Brittany so they go up to manang hoping to see a doctor, turns out the clinic and pharmacy are closed for the season – awesome! . We walk up to manang on the night of the 6th because im getting stir crazy and Brittany is feeling marginally better. I’m definitely glad we stayed where we did, Manang is pretty big, and full of travelers. I was definitely digging the less populated vibe at Baraka.

 

Also, the wide angle lens is now known as The Destroyer of Chins

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Comments (5)

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  1. susan says:

    I can’t tell you how much I enjoy the blog. I hang on every word..and I steal photos! Hope Brit is on the mend. Did you figure out what it was? Love the descriptions and the integrity of the blog. Love, MOM

  2. Jen Moss says:

    Sounds like Box is kind of a big deal, even in Nepal 😉 Miss you guys, love the posts and pictures! Hoping to have a few of my own after the next 2 weeks!

    PS-Is it April 2013 yet??? xoxo

  3. Susan B. says:

    Hope you are better Box! I’m still jealous but I guess louging on the beach and kayaking will have to suffice for Delaware…

    • Brittany says:

      Feeling soooooo much better now that we are in Bangkok! Lounging on the beach and kayaking isnt much to complain about… oh and the fact you have a killer beach house (that i plan at crashing at when i come back from this trip a bum!)

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